A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches
This paper revisits the derivation of the parametric surf zone model proposed by Baldock et al. [Baldock, T. E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S. & Van Weert, P. 1998 Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196.]. We show that a consistent use of the proposed Rayleig...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2007-09, Vol.54 (9), p.711-716 |
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| container_title | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) |
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| creator | Janssen, T.T. Battjes, J.A. |
| description | This paper revisits the derivation of the parametric surf zone model proposed by Baldock et al. [Baldock, T. E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S. & Van Weert, P. 1998 Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196.]. We show that a consistent use of the proposed Rayleigh distribution for surf zone wave heights results in modification of the expressions for the bulk dissipation rate and enhanced dissipation levels on steep beaches and over-saturated surf zone conditions. As a consequence, the modification proposed herein renders the model robust even on steep beaches where it could otherwise develop a shoreline singularity. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.05.006 |
| format | Article |
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Geothermics</subject><subject>Engineering geology</subject><subject>Exact sciences and technology</subject><subject>Geomorphology, landform evolution</subject><subject>Marine</subject><subject>Marine and continental quaternary</subject><subject>Random waves</subject><subject>Rayleigh distribution</subject><subject>Steep beach</subject><subject>Surf zone</subject><subject>Surficial geology</subject><subject>Wave breaking</subject><issn>0378-3839</issn><issn>1872-7379</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2007</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><recordid>eNqFkE1PwzAMhiMEEmPwH3qBW4vTJG1yHBNf0iQucI7S1BmZumYk3dD-PZ02aUd8sWQ99is_hGQUCgq0elwVNpg0mA77ZVEC1AWIAqC6IBMq6zKvWa0uyQRYLXMmmbomNymtYKxKignhs6wPA2ahz37NDjPsMS73WetT8hsz-HEedhizNCBusgaN_cZ0S66c6RLenfqUfL08f87f8sXH6_t8tsjtGDrkLRjbYguqoY456aQS0gkhSqoch0o1wCij1FayQdpwJ5CiQSNpJbiihrEpeTje3cTws8U06LVPFrvO9Bi2SZfAK85LOoLyCNoYUoro9Cb6tYl7TUEfNOmVPmvSB00ahB4djKv3pwyTrOlcNL316byvgHFV85F7OnI4PrzzGHWyHnuLrY9oB90G_3_YHyQ9gkw</recordid><startdate>20070901</startdate><enddate>20070901</enddate><creator>Janssen, T.T.</creator><creator>Battjes, J.A.</creator><general>Elsevier B.V</general><general>Elsevier</general><scope>IQODW</scope><scope>AAYXX</scope><scope>CITATION</scope><scope>7TG</scope><scope>7TN</scope><scope>F1W</scope><scope>H96</scope><scope>KL.</scope><scope>L.G</scope></search><sort><creationdate>20070901</creationdate><title>A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches</title><author>Janssen, T.T. ; Battjes, J.A.</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-c379t-d0acded09b1f3f8f8958f555219f4069b031311c68be1b4f5e1eaea8165491a33</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2007</creationdate><topic>Earth sciences</topic><topic>Earth, ocean, space</topic><topic>Engineering and environment geology. 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| ispartof | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam), 2007-09, Vol.54 (9), p.711-716 |
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| language | eng |
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| source | Access via ScienceDirect (Elsevier) |
| subjects | Earth sciences Earth, ocean, space Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics Engineering geology Exact sciences and technology Geomorphology, landform evolution Marine Marine and continental quaternary Random waves Rayleigh distribution Steep beach Surf zone Surficial geology Wave breaking |
| title | A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches |
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