Factorial design of essential oil extraction from Fagraea fragrans Roxb. flowers and evaluation of its biological activities for perfumery and cosmetic applications

Synopsis Objective To optimize the extraction yields of essential oil from Fagraea fragrans Roxb. flowers in hydro‐distillation using a central composite design (CCD) and to evaluate its biological activities for perfumery and cosmetic applications. Methods Central composite design was applied to study the influences of operational parameters [water to flower weight (X1) and distillation time (X2)] on the yields of essential oil (Y). Chemical compositions of the essential oil extracted from the optimized condition were identified by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Antioxidant activities of the essential oil were determined against ABTS•+ and DPPH• radicals, and the cytotoxic effects were assessed on human embryonic kidney (HEK293) cells by the use of the MTT assay. Also, the aromatic properties of the essential oil were evaluated by five healthy trained volunteers. Results The best conditions to obtain the maximum essential oil yield were 7.5 mL g−1 (X1) and 215 min (X2). The experimental yield of the essential oil (0.35 ± 0.02% v/w) was close to the value predicted by a mathematical model (0.35 ± 0.01% v/w). 3‐Octadecyne, Z,Z,Z‐7,10,13‐hexadecatrienal, E‐nerolidol, pentadecanal and linalool were the major constituents of the essential oil. The essential oil showed moderate antioxidant capacities with no toxic effects on HEK293 cells at 1–250 μg mL−1. Also, the essential oil exhibited a very strong aroma and was classified to be top‐ to middle‐notes. Conclusion The results offer the effectively operational conditions in the extraction of essential oil from F. fragrans using hydro‐distillation. The essential oil could be used as a natural fragrance, having antioxidant activity with slight cytotoxicity, for perfumery and cosmetic applications. Résumé Objectif Optimiser les rendements d'extraction d'huile essentielle des fleurs de Fagraea fragrans Roxb. par hydro‐distillation en utilisant une conception composite centrale (CCD) et d'évaluer ses activités biologiques pour la parfumerie et les applications cosmétiques. Méthodes La CCD a été appliquée pour étudier les influences des paramètres opérationnels [ratios pondéral eau/ fleurs (X1) et temps de distillation (X2)] sur les rendements d'huile essentielle (Y). Les compositions chimiques de l'huile essentielle extraite de l'état optimisé ont été identifiées par chromatographie en phase gazeuse‐spectrométrie de masse. Les activités anti‐oxydantes de l'huile essentielle ont été déterminées contre les radi