Frictional wave dissipation on a remarkably rough reef

We present a week of observations of wave dissipation on the south forereef of Palmyra Atoll. Using wave measurements made in 6.2 m and 11.2 m of water offshore of the surf zone, we computed energy fluxes and near‐bottom velocity. Equating the divergence of the shoreward energy flux to its dissipati...

Ausführliche Beschreibung