Frictional wave dissipation on a remarkably rough reef
We present a week of observations of wave dissipation on the south forereef of Palmyra Atoll. Using wave measurements made in 6.2 m and 11.2 m of water offshore of the surf zone, we computed energy fluxes and near‐bottom velocity. Equating the divergence of the shoreward energy flux to its dissipati...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Geophysical research letters 2015-05, Vol.42 (10), p.4063-4071 |
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| creator | Monismith, Stephen G. Rogers, Justin S. Koweek, David Dunbar, Robert B. |
| description | We present a week of observations of wave dissipation on the south forereef of Palmyra Atoll. Using wave measurements made in 6.2 m and 11.2 m of water offshore of the surf zone, we computed energy fluxes and near‐bottom velocity. Equating the divergence of the shoreward energy flux to its dissipation by bottom friction and parameterizating dissipation in terms of the root‐mean‐square velocity cubed, we find that the wave friction factor, fw, for this reef is 1.80 ± 0.07, nearly an order of magnitude larger than values previously found for reefs. We attribute this remarkably high value of fw to the complex canopy structure of the reef, which we believe may be characteristic of healthy reefs. This suggests that healthy reefs with high coral cover may provide greater coastal protection than do degraded reefs with low coral cover.
Key Points
Shoaling waves observed on a healthy coral reef
Damping of waves is an order of magnitude greater than observed previously
High friction factor observed attributed to canopy flow dynamics |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1002/2015GL063804 |
| format | Article |
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Key Points
Shoaling waves observed on a healthy coral reef
Damping of waves is an order of magnitude greater than observed previously
High friction factor observed attributed to canopy flow dynamics</description><identifier>ISSN: 0094-8276</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1944-8007</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1002/2015GL063804</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Washington: Blackwell Publishing Ltd</publisher><subject>Atolls ; Bottom friction ; Canopies ; Canopy ; Coastal engineering ; Coastal protection ; Coastal zone management ; coral ; Coral reefs ; Corals ; Degradation ; Dissipation ; Dissipation factor ; Energy flux ; Energy transfer ; Environmental protection ; Fluxes ; Friction ; Friction factor ; Geophysics ; Oceanography ; Offshore ; Protection ; Reefs ; Surf ; Surf zone ; Velocity ; Wave dissipation ; Wave measurement ; waves</subject><ispartof>Geophysical research letters, 2015-05, Vol.42 (10), p.4063-4071</ispartof><rights>2015. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-c5807-a3f8882ac2f4720fc0697d8df5fe2fc2a8adc2bc8fcb9cb369b80fb9f46579063</citedby><cites>FETCH-LOGICAL-c5807-a3f8882ac2f4720fc0697d8df5fe2fc2a8adc2bc8fcb9cb369b80fb9f46579063</cites></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><linktopdf>$$Uhttps://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002%2F2015GL063804$$EPDF$$P50$$Gwiley$$H</linktopdf><linktohtml>$$Uhttps://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002%2F2015GL063804$$EHTML$$P50$$Gwiley$$H</linktohtml><link.rule.ids>314,776,780,1411,1427,11493,27901,27902,45550,45551,46384,46443,46808,46867</link.rule.ids></links><search><creatorcontrib>Monismith, Stephen G.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Rogers, Justin S.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Koweek, David</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Dunbar, Robert B.</creatorcontrib><title>Frictional wave dissipation on a remarkably rough reef</title><title>Geophysical research letters</title><addtitle>Geophys. Res. Lett</addtitle><description>We present a week of observations of wave dissipation on the south forereef of Palmyra Atoll. Using wave measurements made in 6.2 m and 11.2 m of water offshore of the surf zone, we computed energy fluxes and near‐bottom velocity. Equating the divergence of the shoreward energy flux to its dissipation by bottom friction and parameterizating dissipation in terms of the root‐mean‐square velocity cubed, we find that the wave friction factor, fw, for this reef is 1.80 ± 0.07, nearly an order of magnitude larger than values previously found for reefs. We attribute this remarkably high value of fw to the complex canopy structure of the reef, which we believe may be characteristic of healthy reefs. This suggests that healthy reefs with high coral cover may provide greater coastal protection than do degraded reefs with low coral cover.
Key Points
Shoaling waves observed on a healthy coral reef
Damping of waves is an order of magnitude greater than observed previously
High friction factor observed attributed to canopy flow dynamics</description><subject>Atolls</subject><subject>Bottom friction</subject><subject>Canopies</subject><subject>Canopy</subject><subject>Coastal engineering</subject><subject>Coastal protection</subject><subject>Coastal zone management</subject><subject>coral</subject><subject>Coral reefs</subject><subject>Corals</subject><subject>Degradation</subject><subject>Dissipation</subject><subject>Dissipation factor</subject><subject>Energy flux</subject><subject>Energy transfer</subject><subject>Environmental protection</subject><subject>Fluxes</subject><subject>Friction</subject><subject>Friction factor</subject><subject>Geophysics</subject><subject>Oceanography</subject><subject>Offshore</subject><subject>Protection</subject><subject>Reefs</subject><subject>Surf</subject><subject>Surf zone</subject><subject>Velocity</subject><subject>Wave dissipation</subject><subject>Wave measurement</subject><subject>waves</subject><issn>0094-8276</issn><issn>1944-8007</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2015</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><recordid>eNqN0VFLwzAQAOAgCs7pmz-g4IsPVi9J0ySPMt0mVAVRfAxpmmhnt85kde7fmzER8WEIgYTju-Nyh9AxhnMMQC4IYDYqIKcCsh3UwzLLUgHAd1EPQMY34fk-OghhAgAUKO6hfOhrs6jbmW6Spf6wSVWHUM_1OpTEoxNvp9q_6bJZJb7tXl5jwLpDtOd0E-zR991HT8Prx8E4Le5HN4PLIjVMAE81dUIIog1xGSfgDOSSV6JyzFniDNFCV4aURjhTSlPSXJYCXCldljMu40f66HRTd-7b986GhZrWwdim0TPbdkFhDpIzwDT7D2XAmKAk0pM_dNJ2Po4gKolBiEizrSoXMkJM1h2ebZTxbQjeOjX3dZzYSmFQ662o31uJnGz4sm7saqtVo4eCEUl5TEo3SXVY2M-fpLgWlXPKmXq-G6mrgRzfXsVCQ_oF5xeZyw</recordid><startdate>20150528</startdate><enddate>20150528</enddate><creator>Monismith, Stephen G.</creator><creator>Rogers, Justin S.</creator><creator>Koweek, David</creator><creator>Dunbar, Robert B.</creator><general>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</general><general>John Wiley & Sons, Inc</general><scope>BSCLL</scope><scope>AAYXX</scope><scope>CITATION</scope><scope>7TG</scope><scope>7TN</scope><scope>8FD</scope><scope>F1W</scope><scope>FR3</scope><scope>H8D</scope><scope>H96</scope><scope>KL.</scope><scope>KR7</scope><scope>L.G</scope><scope>L7M</scope><scope>H95</scope><scope>7SU</scope><scope>C1K</scope></search><sort><creationdate>20150528</creationdate><title>Frictional wave dissipation on a remarkably rough reef</title><author>Monismith, Stephen G. ; Rogers, Justin S. ; Koweek, David ; Dunbar, Robert B.</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-c5807-a3f8882ac2f4720fc0697d8df5fe2fc2a8adc2bc8fcb9cb369b80fb9f46579063</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2015</creationdate><topic>Atolls</topic><topic>Bottom friction</topic><topic>Canopies</topic><topic>Canopy</topic><topic>Coastal engineering</topic><topic>Coastal protection</topic><topic>Coastal zone management</topic><topic>coral</topic><topic>Coral reefs</topic><topic>Corals</topic><topic>Degradation</topic><topic>Dissipation</topic><topic>Dissipation factor</topic><topic>Energy flux</topic><topic>Energy transfer</topic><topic>Environmental protection</topic><topic>Fluxes</topic><topic>Friction</topic><topic>Friction factor</topic><topic>Geophysics</topic><topic>Oceanography</topic><topic>Offshore</topic><topic>Protection</topic><topic>Reefs</topic><topic>Surf</topic><topic>Surf zone</topic><topic>Velocity</topic><topic>Wave dissipation</topic><topic>Wave measurement</topic><topic>waves</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>Monismith, Stephen G.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Rogers, Justin S.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Koweek, David</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Dunbar, Robert B.</creatorcontrib><collection>Istex</collection><collection>CrossRef</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts</collection><collection>Oceanic Abstracts</collection><collection>Technology Research Database</collection><collection>ASFA: Aquatic Sciences and Fisheries Abstracts</collection><collection>Engineering Research Database</collection><collection>Aerospace Database</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) 2: Ocean Technology, Policy & Non-Living Resources</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts - Academic</collection><collection>Civil Engineering Abstracts</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) Professional</collection><collection>Advanced Technologies Database with Aerospace</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) 1: Biological Sciences & Living Resources</collection><collection>Environmental Engineering Abstracts</collection><collection>Environmental Sciences and Pollution Management</collection><jtitle>Geophysical research letters</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>Monismith, Stephen G.</au><au>Rogers, Justin S.</au><au>Koweek, David</au><au>Dunbar, Robert B.</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Frictional wave dissipation on a remarkably rough reef</atitle><jtitle>Geophysical research letters</jtitle><addtitle>Geophys. Res. Lett</addtitle><date>2015-05-28</date><risdate>2015</risdate><volume>42</volume><issue>10</issue><spage>4063</spage><epage>4071</epage><pages>4063-4071</pages><issn>0094-8276</issn><eissn>1944-8007</eissn><abstract>We present a week of observations of wave dissipation on the south forereef of Palmyra Atoll. Using wave measurements made in 6.2 m and 11.2 m of water offshore of the surf zone, we computed energy fluxes and near‐bottom velocity. Equating the divergence of the shoreward energy flux to its dissipation by bottom friction and parameterizating dissipation in terms of the root‐mean‐square velocity cubed, we find that the wave friction factor, fw, for this reef is 1.80 ± 0.07, nearly an order of magnitude larger than values previously found for reefs. We attribute this remarkably high value of fw to the complex canopy structure of the reef, which we believe may be characteristic of healthy reefs. This suggests that healthy reefs with high coral cover may provide greater coastal protection than do degraded reefs with low coral cover.
Key Points
Shoaling waves observed on a healthy coral reef
Damping of waves is an order of magnitude greater than observed previously
High friction factor observed attributed to canopy flow dynamics</abstract><cop>Washington</cop><pub>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</pub><doi>10.1002/2015GL063804</doi><tpages>9</tpages></addata></record> |
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| source | Wiley Free Content; Wiley-Blackwell AGU Digital Library; Wiley Online Library Journals Frontfile Complete; Elektronische Zeitschriftenbibliothek - Frei zugängliche E-Journals |
| subjects | Atolls Bottom friction Canopies Canopy Coastal engineering Coastal protection Coastal zone management coral Coral reefs Corals Degradation Dissipation Dissipation factor Energy flux Energy transfer Environmental protection Fluxes Friction Friction factor Geophysics Oceanography Offshore Protection Reefs Surf Surf zone Velocity Wave dissipation Wave measurement waves |
| title | Frictional wave dissipation on a remarkably rough reef |
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