Wave‐Driven Hydrodynamic Processes Over Fringing Reefs With Varying Slopes, Depths, and Roughness: Implications for Coastal Protection

Wave breaking on the steep fore‐reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea‐swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea‐swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave...

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Veröffentlicht in:	Journal of geophysical research. Oceans 2022-11, Vol.127 (11), p.n/a
Hauptverfasser:	Buckley, Mark L., Lowe, Ryan J., Hansen, Jeff E., Dongeren, Ap R., Pomeroy, Andrew, Storlazzi, Curt D., Rijnsdorp, Dirk P., Silva, Renan F., Contardo, Stephanie, Green, Rebecca H.
Format:	Artikel
Sprache:	eng
Schlagworte:	Beach slope Beaches Bed roughness Bottom friction Bottom roughness canopy flow Coastal fronts Coastal protection Coastal zone management coral reef Coral reefs Dimensions Dissipation Drag Drag coefficient Drag coefficients Environmental protection Flumes Forces Friction reduction Fringing reefs Geophysics infragravity waves Laboratories Laboratory experimentation Mass mortality Mathematical models Modelling Multilayers numerical modeling Numerical models Offshore Protection Prototypes Roughness Shoreline protection Shorelines Slopes Swell Water levels Wave breaking Wave dissipation Wave runup
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