Biomimetic Approach for the Production of 3D Woven Spherical Composite Applied in Apparel Protection and Performance

Current sports bras are typically manufactured via a cut and sew process resulting in a high volume of post-production material waste. Seams derived from this cut and sew process are known to irritate the skin during exercise. This irritant discomfort seriously affects the dynamic comfort during exercise, hindering limb movement and displacement of the female breast. It implies a need for an alternative textile manufacturing process for a seamless sportswear-sports bra to combine the surface aesthetics with biomimetics together with anthropometry and ergonomic data. Tailoring the two yarn interlocking directions (0/90°) within the compound structure of a multilayer multilevel weave architecture provides a construction process to the production, the weaving, of seamless 3D woven spherical forms. Seamlessly shaped wovens in this paper are underpinned by biomimetic anthropometry and real-time data to produce variable spherical forms that mould and support a given set of 3D geometries. Upon completion of the weave generation using specialised weave software, the production parameters are completed upon transfer to the combined weaving technology, Mageba-Staubli Unival 100 (MS-100). The 2D on-loom woven fabric converts to a 3D shape upon removal and by pulling-pushing-unfolding the woven fabric (2D-to-3D). The scope of end applications within the sportswear-sports bra sector (but not limited to) enables a framework for the generic design geometries and production principles.