The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System

Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furth...

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Veröffentlicht in:Journal of geophysical research. Oceans 2021-03, Vol.126 (3), p.n/a
Hauptverfasser: Pomeroy, Andrew W. M., Storlazzi, Curt D., Rosenberger, Kurt J., Lowe, Ryan J., Hansen, Jeff E., Buckley, Mark L.
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container_title Journal of geophysical research. Oceans
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creator Pomeroy, Andrew W. M.
Storlazzi, Curt D.
Rosenberger, Kurt J.
Lowe, Ryan J.
Hansen, Jeff E.
Buckley, Mark L.
description Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. Plain Language Summary Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing
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M. ; Storlazzi, Curt D. ; Rosenberger, Kurt J. ; Lowe, Ryan J. ; Hansen, Jeff E. ; Buckley, Mark L.</creator><creatorcontrib>Pomeroy, Andrew W. M. ; Storlazzi, Curt D. ; Rosenberger, Kurt J. ; Lowe, Ryan J. ; Hansen, Jeff E. ; Buckley, Mark L.</creatorcontrib><description>Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. Plain Language Summary Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing of the suspension by these waves helps to sort the sediment into different sizes across the system, but the quantity of sediment transported is small. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and reefs change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is also likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. This study provides insight into what changes may be expected. Key Points Sediment transported in suspension is 3–4 times lower than sediment transported as bedload Sediment transported in suspension by mean currents is 2 orders of magnitude greater than sediment transported by waves Sea‐swell waves typically transport sediment offshore and infragravity waves and mean currents typically transport sediment onshore</description><identifier>ISSN: 2169-9275</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 2169-9291</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1029/2020JC017010</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Washington: Blackwell Publishing Ltd</publisher><subject>bedload ; Benthic communities ; Benthos ; Carbonate sediments ; Carbonates ; Climate change ; coral reef ; Coral reefs ; Geophysics ; Grain size ; infragravity wave ; Lagoons ; Ocean floor ; Ocean waves ; Oceans ; Offshore ; Oscillating flow ; Oscillatory flow ; Sea currents ; Sea level ; Sea level changes ; Sea level rise ; Sediment ; Sediment transport ; Sediments ; Shorelines ; suspended sediment ; Suspended sediments ; Swell ; swell waves ; Transport processes ; Water circulation ; Water column ; Wave climate</subject><ispartof>Journal of geophysical research. 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M.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Storlazzi, Curt D.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Rosenberger, Kurt J.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Lowe, Ryan J.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Hansen, Jeff E.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Buckley, Mark L.</creatorcontrib><title>The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System</title><title>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans</title><description>Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. Plain Language Summary Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing of the suspension by these waves helps to sort the sediment into different sizes across the system, but the quantity of sediment transported is small. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and reefs change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is also likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. This study provides insight into what changes may be expected. 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Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. Plain Language Summary Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing of the suspension by these waves helps to sort the sediment into different sizes across the system, but the quantity of sediment transported is small. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and reefs change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is also likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. This study provides insight into what changes may be expected. Key Points Sediment transported in suspension is 3–4 times lower than sediment transported as bedload Sediment transported in suspension by mean currents is 2 orders of magnitude greater than sediment transported by waves Sea‐swell waves typically transport sediment offshore and infragravity waves and mean currents typically transport sediment onshore</abstract><cop>Washington</cop><pub>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</pub><doi>10.1029/2020JC017010</doi><tpages>19</tpages><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8057-4490</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5185-5776</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8882-3866</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1909-4831</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8948-4579</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7080-8406</orcidid><oa>free_for_read</oa></addata></record>
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subjects bedload
Benthic communities
Benthos
Carbonate sediments
Carbonates
Climate change
coral reef
Coral reefs
Geophysics
Grain size
infragravity wave
Lagoons
Ocean floor
Ocean waves
Oceans
Offshore
Oscillating flow
Oscillatory flow
Sea currents
Sea level
Sea level changes
Sea level rise
Sediment
Sediment transport
Sediments
Shorelines
suspended sediment
Suspended sediments
Swell
swell waves
Transport processes
Water circulation
Water column
Wave climate
title The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System
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