The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System
Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furth...
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description | Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems.
Plain Language Summary
Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing |
doi_str_mv | 10.1029/2020JC017010 |
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Plain Language Summary
Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing of the suspension by these waves helps to sort the sediment into different sizes across the system, but the quantity of sediment transported is small. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and reefs change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is also likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. This study provides insight into what changes may be expected.
Key Points
Sediment transported in suspension is 3–4 times lower than sediment transported as bedload
Sediment transported in suspension by mean currents is 2 orders of magnitude greater than sediment transported by waves
Sea‐swell waves typically transport sediment offshore and infragravity waves and mean currents typically transport sediment onshore</description><identifier>ISSN: 2169-9275</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 2169-9291</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1029/2020JC017010</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Washington: Blackwell Publishing Ltd</publisher><subject>bedload ; Benthic communities ; Benthos ; Carbonate sediments ; Carbonates ; Climate change ; coral reef ; Coral reefs ; Geophysics ; Grain size ; infragravity wave ; Lagoons ; Ocean floor ; Ocean waves ; Oceans ; Offshore ; Oscillating flow ; Oscillatory flow ; Sea currents ; Sea level ; Sea level changes ; Sea level rise ; Sediment ; Sediment transport ; Sediments ; Shorelines ; suspended sediment ; Suspended sediments ; Swell ; swell waves ; Transport processes ; Water circulation ; Water column ; Wave climate</subject><ispartof>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans, 2021-03, Vol.126 (3), p.n/a</ispartof><rights>2021. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><oa>free_for_read</oa><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-a3686-585d1356c52073f549342830ace83c9d18dd60b8beea2ae0ea0e1ca2ea7eeb63</citedby><cites>FETCH-LOGICAL-a3686-585d1356c52073f549342830ace83c9d18dd60b8beea2ae0ea0e1ca2ea7eeb63</cites><orcidid>0000-0001-8057-4490 ; 0000-0002-5185-5776 ; 0000-0002-8882-3866 ; 0000-0002-1909-4831 ; 0000-0002-8948-4579 ; 0000-0002-7080-8406</orcidid></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><linktopdf>$$Uhttps://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1029%2F2020JC017010$$EPDF$$P50$$Gwiley$$H</linktopdf><linktohtml>$$Uhttps://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1029%2F2020JC017010$$EHTML$$P50$$Gwiley$$H</linktohtml><link.rule.ids>314,776,780,1411,1427,27903,27904,45552,45553,46386,46810</link.rule.ids></links><search><creatorcontrib>Pomeroy, Andrew W. M.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Storlazzi, Curt D.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Rosenberger, Kurt J.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Lowe, Ryan J.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Hansen, Jeff E.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Buckley, Mark L.</creatorcontrib><title>The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System</title><title>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans</title><description>Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems.
Plain Language Summary
Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing of the suspension by these waves helps to sort the sediment into different sizes across the system, but the quantity of sediment transported is small. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and reefs change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is also likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. This study provides insight into what changes may be expected.
Key Points
Sediment transported in suspension is 3–4 times lower than sediment transported as bedload
Sediment transported in suspension by mean currents is 2 orders of magnitude greater than sediment transported by waves
Sea‐swell waves typically transport sediment offshore and infragravity waves and mean currents typically transport sediment onshore</description><subject>bedload</subject><subject>Benthic communities</subject><subject>Benthos</subject><subject>Carbonate sediments</subject><subject>Carbonates</subject><subject>Climate change</subject><subject>coral reef</subject><subject>Coral reefs</subject><subject>Geophysics</subject><subject>Grain size</subject><subject>infragravity wave</subject><subject>Lagoons</subject><subject>Ocean floor</subject><subject>Ocean waves</subject><subject>Oceans</subject><subject>Offshore</subject><subject>Oscillating flow</subject><subject>Oscillatory flow</subject><subject>Sea currents</subject><subject>Sea level</subject><subject>Sea level changes</subject><subject>Sea level rise</subject><subject>Sediment</subject><subject>Sediment transport</subject><subject>Sediments</subject><subject>Shorelines</subject><subject>suspended sediment</subject><subject>Suspended sediments</subject><subject>Swell</subject><subject>swell waves</subject><subject>Transport processes</subject><subject>Water circulation</subject><subject>Water column</subject><subject>Wave climate</subject><issn>2169-9275</issn><issn>2169-9291</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2021</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><recordid>eNp9kMFKw0AQhoMoWLQ3H2DBa6uzu0m6eyxBq1IQ2oDHME0mNSXN1t3E0psvIPiMPolbK-LJuczw8838wx8EFxyuOAh9LUDAQwJ8BByOgp7gsR5qofnx7zyKToO-cyvwpbgKQ90L3tNnYolpWlsturYyDTMlSzprqWndgM0JP98-5luqa_aEr-QlbAp235QWlxZfq3Z30Flr2LxzG2oKKvYrVFRrf4OlFhu3MbZl49wa5xh6O4s1mxGVHpzi0njX-c61tD4PTkqsHfV_-lmQ3t6kyd1w-ji5T8bTIcpYxcNIRQWXUZxHAkayjEItQ6EkYE5K5rrgqihiWKgFEQokIATiOQrCEdEilmfB5eHsxpqXjlybrUxnG--YiQi0UCCF9tTgQH3_banMNrZao91lHLJ95NnfyD0uD_i2qmn3L5s9TGaJCEOI5Rd4ioY6</recordid><startdate>202103</startdate><enddate>202103</enddate><creator>Pomeroy, Andrew W. M.</creator><creator>Storlazzi, Curt D.</creator><creator>Rosenberger, Kurt J.</creator><creator>Lowe, Ryan J.</creator><creator>Hansen, Jeff E.</creator><creator>Buckley, Mark L.</creator><general>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</general><scope>AAYXX</scope><scope>CITATION</scope><scope>7TG</scope><scope>7TN</scope><scope>F1W</scope><scope>H96</scope><scope>KL.</scope><scope>L.G</scope><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8057-4490</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5185-5776</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8882-3866</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1909-4831</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8948-4579</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7080-8406</orcidid></search><sort><creationdate>202103</creationdate><title>The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System</title><author>Pomeroy, Andrew W. M. ; Storlazzi, Curt D. ; Rosenberger, Kurt J. ; Lowe, Ryan J. ; Hansen, Jeff E. ; Buckley, Mark L.</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-a3686-585d1356c52073f549342830ace83c9d18dd60b8beea2ae0ea0e1ca2ea7eeb63</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2021</creationdate><topic>bedload</topic><topic>Benthic communities</topic><topic>Benthos</topic><topic>Carbonate sediments</topic><topic>Carbonates</topic><topic>Climate change</topic><topic>coral reef</topic><topic>Coral reefs</topic><topic>Geophysics</topic><topic>Grain size</topic><topic>infragravity wave</topic><topic>Lagoons</topic><topic>Ocean floor</topic><topic>Ocean waves</topic><topic>Oceans</topic><topic>Offshore</topic><topic>Oscillating flow</topic><topic>Oscillatory flow</topic><topic>Sea currents</topic><topic>Sea level</topic><topic>Sea level changes</topic><topic>Sea level rise</topic><topic>Sediment</topic><topic>Sediment transport</topic><topic>Sediments</topic><topic>Shorelines</topic><topic>suspended sediment</topic><topic>Suspended sediments</topic><topic>Swell</topic><topic>swell waves</topic><topic>Transport processes</topic><topic>Water circulation</topic><topic>Water column</topic><topic>Wave climate</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>Pomeroy, Andrew W. M.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Storlazzi, Curt D.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Rosenberger, Kurt J.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Lowe, Ryan J.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Hansen, Jeff E.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Buckley, Mark L.</creatorcontrib><collection>CrossRef</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts</collection><collection>Oceanic Abstracts</collection><collection>ASFA: Aquatic Sciences and Fisheries Abstracts</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) 2: Ocean Technology, Policy & Non-Living Resources</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts - Academic</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) Professional</collection><jtitle>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>Pomeroy, Andrew W. M.</au><au>Storlazzi, Curt D.</au><au>Rosenberger, Kurt J.</au><au>Lowe, Ryan J.</au><au>Hansen, Jeff E.</au><au>Buckley, Mark L.</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System</atitle><jtitle>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans</jtitle><date>2021-03</date><risdate>2021</risdate><volume>126</volume><issue>3</issue><epage>n/a</epage><issn>2169-9275</issn><eissn>2169-9291</eissn><abstract>Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems.
Plain Language Summary
Most of the sandy sediment found on coral reef coastlines is produced by organisms living within the reef. This sediment is then transported by waves and currents across the reef and distributed throughout the lagoon. Little is known about these transport processes, including the relative importance of how currents or different types of waves drive transport. This study shows that most of the sediment in the water column (suspended sediment) is transported close to the seabed by mean currents. At times, this sediment can be suspended higher in the water column by short waves (5–25 s) when the flow transitions from being onshore directed to offshore directed, or when the velocities of longer period waves (25–250 s), called infragravity waves, are directed onshore. The timing of the suspension by these waves helps to sort the sediment into different sizes across the system, but the quantity of sediment transported is small. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and reefs change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is also likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems. This study provides insight into what changes may be expected.
Key Points
Sediment transported in suspension is 3–4 times lower than sediment transported as bedload
Sediment transported in suspension by mean currents is 2 orders of magnitude greater than sediment transported by waves
Sea‐swell waves typically transport sediment offshore and infragravity waves and mean currents typically transport sediment onshore</abstract><cop>Washington</cop><pub>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</pub><doi>10.1029/2020JC017010</doi><tpages>19</tpages><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8057-4490</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5185-5776</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8882-3866</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1909-4831</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8948-4579</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7080-8406</orcidid><oa>free_for_read</oa></addata></record> |
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subjects | bedload Benthic communities Benthos Carbonate sediments Carbonates Climate change coral reef Coral reefs Geophysics Grain size infragravity wave Lagoons Ocean floor Ocean waves Oceans Offshore Oscillating flow Oscillatory flow Sea currents Sea level Sea level changes Sea level rise Sediment Sediment transport Sediments Shorelines suspended sediment Suspended sediments Swell swell waves Transport processes Water circulation Water column Wave climate |
title | The Contribution of Currents, Sea‐Swell Waves, and Infragravity Waves to Suspended‐Sediment Transport Across a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System |
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