Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach
Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium m...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Ocean dynamics 2018-09, Vol.68 (9), p.1207-1220 |
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| creator | Lemos, Clara Floc’h, France Yates, Marissa Le Dantec, Nicolas Marieu, Vincent Hamon, Klervi Cuq, Véronique Suanez, Serge Delacourt, Christophe |
| description | Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1 |
| format | Article |
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The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.</description><identifier>ISSN: 1616-7341</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1616-7228</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Berlin/Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg</publisher><subject>12-16 June 2017 ; Animal behavior ; Atmospheric Sciences ; Beach profiles ; Beaches ; Capacity ; Crustaceans ; Denmark ; Earth and Environmental Science ; Earth Sciences ; Empirical analysis ; Empirical models ; Environmental Engineering ; Environmental Sciences ; Equilibrium ; Fluid- and Aerodynamics ; Geomorphology ; Geophysics/Geodesy ; Helsingør ; Incident waves ; Intertidal environment ; Intertidal zone ; Low tide ; Mathematical models ; Modelling ; Monitoring/Environmental Analysis ; Oceanography ; Parameters ; Sciences of the Universe ; Seasonal variation ; Surveys ; Tidal energy ; Tidal power ; Tidal range ; Tides ; Topical Collection on the 8th International conference on Coastal Dynamics ; Water levels ; Wave energy ; Wave power</subject><ispartof>Ocean dynamics, 2018-09, Vol.68 (9), p.1207-1220</ispartof><rights>Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature 2018</rights><rights>Ocean Dynamics is a copyright of Springer, (2018). All Rights Reserved.</rights><rights>Distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-c416t-11ece129a1aaa035312b05d74d871b68c1c95f060f72d7681f80ea5bb27624733</citedby><cites>FETCH-LOGICAL-c416t-11ece129a1aaa035312b05d74d871b68c1c95f060f72d7681f80ea5bb27624733</cites><orcidid>0000-0001-9643-2278 ; 0000-0003-4023-0161 ; 0000-0003-2484-1464 ; 0000-0003-0872-8699</orcidid></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><linktopdf>$$Uhttps://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1$$EPDF$$P50$$Gspringer$$H</linktopdf><linktohtml>$$Uhttps://link.springer.com/10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1$$EHTML$$P50$$Gspringer$$H</linktohtml><link.rule.ids>230,314,780,784,885,27924,27925,41488,42557,51319</link.rule.ids><backlink>$$Uhttps://hal.science/hal-01810440$$DView record in HAL$$Hfree_for_read</backlink></links><search><creatorcontrib>Lemos, Clara</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Floc’h, France</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Yates, Marissa</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Le Dantec, Nicolas</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Marieu, Vincent</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Hamon, Klervi</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Cuq, Véronique</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Suanez, Serge</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Delacourt, Christophe</creatorcontrib><title>Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach</title><title>Ocean dynamics</title><addtitle>Ocean Dynamics</addtitle><description>Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.</description><subject>12-16 June 2017</subject><subject>Animal behavior</subject><subject>Atmospheric Sciences</subject><subject>Beach profiles</subject><subject>Beaches</subject><subject>Capacity</subject><subject>Crustaceans</subject><subject>Denmark</subject><subject>Earth and Environmental Science</subject><subject>Earth Sciences</subject><subject>Empirical analysis</subject><subject>Empirical models</subject><subject>Environmental Engineering</subject><subject>Environmental Sciences</subject><subject>Equilibrium</subject><subject>Fluid- and Aerodynamics</subject><subject>Geomorphology</subject><subject>Geophysics/Geodesy</subject><subject>Helsingør</subject><subject>Incident waves</subject><subject>Intertidal environment</subject><subject>Intertidal zone</subject><subject>Low tide</subject><subject>Mathematical models</subject><subject>Modelling</subject><subject>Monitoring/Environmental Analysis</subject><subject>Oceanography</subject><subject>Parameters</subject><subject>Sciences of the Universe</subject><subject>Seasonal variation</subject><subject>Surveys</subject><subject>Tidal energy</subject><subject>Tidal power</subject><subject>Tidal range</subject><subject>Tides</subject><subject>Topical Collection on the 8th International conference on Coastal Dynamics</subject><subject>Water levels</subject><subject>Wave energy</subject><subject>Wave 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modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach</title><author>Lemos, Clara ; Floc’h, France ; Yates, Marissa ; Le Dantec, Nicolas ; Marieu, Vincent ; Hamon, Klervi ; Cuq, Véronique ; Suanez, Serge ; Delacourt, Christophe</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-c416t-11ece129a1aaa035312b05d74d871b68c1c95f060f72d7681f80ea5bb27624733</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2018</creationdate><topic>12-16 June 2017</topic><topic>Animal behavior</topic><topic>Atmospheric Sciences</topic><topic>Beach profiles</topic><topic>Beaches</topic><topic>Capacity</topic><topic>Crustaceans</topic><topic>Denmark</topic><topic>Earth and Environmental Science</topic><topic>Earth Sciences</topic><topic>Empirical analysis</topic><topic>Empirical models</topic><topic>Environmental Engineering</topic><topic>Environmental 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Christophe</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach</atitle><jtitle>Ocean dynamics</jtitle><stitle>Ocean Dynamics</stitle><date>2018-09-01</date><risdate>2018</risdate><volume>68</volume><issue>9</issue><spage>1207</spage><epage>1220</epage><pages>1207-1220</pages><issn>1616-7341</issn><eissn>1616-7228</eissn><abstract>Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.</abstract><cop>Berlin/Heidelberg</cop><pub>Springer Berlin Heidelberg</pub><doi>10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1</doi><tpages>14</tpages><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9643-2278</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4023-0161</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2484-1464</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0872-8699</orcidid></addata></record> |
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| ispartof | Ocean dynamics, 2018-09, Vol.68 (9), p.1207-1220 |
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| subjects | 12-16 June 2017 Animal behavior Atmospheric Sciences Beach profiles Beaches Capacity Crustaceans Denmark Earth and Environmental Science Earth Sciences Empirical analysis Empirical models Environmental Engineering Environmental Sciences Equilibrium Fluid- and Aerodynamics Geomorphology Geophysics/Geodesy Helsingør Incident waves Intertidal environment Intertidal zone Low tide Mathematical models Modelling Monitoring/Environmental Analysis Oceanography Parameters Sciences of the Universe Seasonal variation Surveys Tidal energy Tidal power Tidal range Tides Topical Collection on the 8th International conference on Coastal Dynamics Water levels Wave energy Wave power |
| title | Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach |
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