The Thumb During the Crimp Grip
Abstract During rock-climbing, fingers grasp holds of various shapes with high force intensities. To ideally place the fingertips on the holds, the thumb is sometimes positioned on the nail of the index finger. This allows using the thumb as an additional actuator by exerting a supplementary force i...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | International journal of sports medicine 2011-01, Vol.32 (1), p.49-53 |
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| container_title | International journal of sports medicine |
| container_volume | 32 |
| creator | Quaine, F. Vigouroux, L. Paclet, F. Colloud, F. |
| description | Abstract
During rock-climbing, fingers grasp holds of various shapes with high force intensities. To ideally place the fingertips on the holds, the thumb is sometimes positioned on the nail of the index finger. This allows using the thumb as an additional actuator by exerting a supplementary force in the same direction as the index, middle, ring and little fingers. This study analysed how the forces exerted by the fingers are modified by the additional action of the thumb. The results showed that the thumb increases the resultant forces exerted on the hold. It was shown that the pathology risks of the middle, ring and little fingers were not modified in this condition. The finger force sharing was totally re-organized due to the support of the thumb. This led to the conclusion that the central nervous system organised the association of the 5 fingers. The results were discussed in regard to the established theories of the virtual fingers and the neutral line of the hand. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1055/s-0030-1267230 |
| format | Article |
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During rock-climbing, fingers grasp holds of various shapes with high force intensities. To ideally place the fingertips on the holds, the thumb is sometimes positioned on the nail of the index finger. This allows using the thumb as an additional actuator by exerting a supplementary force in the same direction as the index, middle, ring and little fingers. This study analysed how the forces exerted by the fingers are modified by the additional action of the thumb. The results showed that the thumb increases the resultant forces exerted on the hold. It was shown that the pathology risks of the middle, ring and little fingers were not modified in this condition. The finger force sharing was totally re-organized due to the support of the thumb. This led to the conclusion that the central nervous system organised the association of the 5 fingers. The results were discussed in regard to the established theories of the virtual fingers and the neutral line of the hand.</description><identifier>ISSN: 0172-4622</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1439-3964</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1055/s-0030-1267230</identifier><identifier>PMID: 21086244</identifier><identifier>CODEN: IJSMDA</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Stuttgart: Thieme</publisher><subject>Algorithms ; Biological and medical sciences ; Biomechanics ; Engineering Sciences ; Fundamental and applied biological sciences. Psychology ; Hand Strength - physiology ; Humans ; Male ; Mechanics ; Mountaineering - physiology ; Muscle Strength ; Orthopedics & Biomechanics ; Physics ; Thumb ; Vertebrates: body movement. Posture. Locomotion. Flight. Swimming. Physical exercise. Rest. Sports ; Young Adult</subject><ispartof>International journal of sports medicine, 2011-01, Vol.32 (1), p.49-53</ispartof><rights>Georg Thieme Verlag KG Stuttgart · New York</rights><rights>2015 INIST-CNRS</rights><rights>Georg Thieme Verlag KG Stuttgart · New York.</rights><rights>Distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-c429t-b8f3b7ce99e763ebfac9ce34ed89e3d462e1d49fe439c26e9d477ed41a68e9093</citedby><orcidid>0000-0003-1061-7808 ; 0000-0003-3295-0871</orcidid></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><linktopdf>$$Uhttps://www.thieme-connect.de/products/ejournals/pdf/10.1055/s-0030-1267230.pdf$$EPDF$$P50$$Gthieme$$H</linktopdf><linktohtml>$$Uhttps://www.thieme-connect.de/products/ejournals/html/10.1055/s-0030-1267230$$EHTML$$P50$$Gthieme$$H</linktohtml><link.rule.ids>230,314,780,784,885,3017,3018,27924,27925,54559,54560</link.rule.ids><backlink>$$Uhttp://pascal-francis.inist.fr/vibad/index.php?action=getRecordDetail&idt=23769536$$DView record in Pascal Francis$$Hfree_for_read</backlink><backlink>$$Uhttps://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21086244$$D View this record in MEDLINE/PubMed$$Hfree_for_read</backlink><backlink>$$Uhttps://hal.science/hal-00639320$$DView record in HAL$$Hfree_for_read</backlink></links><search><creatorcontrib>Quaine, F.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Vigouroux, L.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Paclet, F.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Colloud, F.</creatorcontrib><title>The Thumb During the Crimp Grip</title><title>International journal of sports medicine</title><addtitle>Int J Sports Med</addtitle><description>Abstract
During rock-climbing, fingers grasp holds of various shapes with high force intensities. To ideally place the fingertips on the holds, the thumb is sometimes positioned on the nail of the index finger. This allows using the thumb as an additional actuator by exerting a supplementary force in the same direction as the index, middle, ring and little fingers. This study analysed how the forces exerted by the fingers are modified by the additional action of the thumb. The results showed that the thumb increases the resultant forces exerted on the hold. It was shown that the pathology risks of the middle, ring and little fingers were not modified in this condition. The finger force sharing was totally re-organized due to the support of the thumb. This led to the conclusion that the central nervous system organised the association of the 5 fingers. The results were discussed in regard to the established theories of the virtual fingers and the neutral line of the hand.</description><subject>Algorithms</subject><subject>Biological and medical sciences</subject><subject>Biomechanics</subject><subject>Engineering Sciences</subject><subject>Fundamental and applied biological sciences. Psychology</subject><subject>Hand Strength - physiology</subject><subject>Humans</subject><subject>Male</subject><subject>Mechanics</subject><subject>Mountaineering - physiology</subject><subject>Muscle Strength</subject><subject>Orthopedics & Biomechanics</subject><subject>Physics</subject><subject>Thumb</subject><subject>Vertebrates: body movement. Posture. Locomotion. Flight. Swimming. Physical exercise. Rest. 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Psychology</topic><topic>Hand Strength - physiology</topic><topic>Humans</topic><topic>Male</topic><topic>Mechanics</topic><topic>Mountaineering - physiology</topic><topic>Muscle Strength</topic><topic>Orthopedics & Biomechanics</topic><topic>Physics</topic><topic>Thumb</topic><topic>Vertebrates: body movement. Posture. Locomotion. Flight. Swimming. Physical exercise. Rest. Sports</topic><topic>Young Adult</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>Quaine, F.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Vigouroux, L.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Paclet, F.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Colloud, F.</creatorcontrib><collection>Pascal-Francis</collection><collection>Medline</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>MEDLINE (Ovid)</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>PubMed</collection><collection>CrossRef</collection><collection>Physical Education Index</collection><collection>MEDLINE - Academic</collection><collection>Hyper Article en Ligne (HAL)</collection><jtitle>International journal of sports medicine</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>Quaine, F.</au><au>Vigouroux, L.</au><au>Paclet, F.</au><au>Colloud, F.</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>The Thumb During the Crimp Grip</atitle><jtitle>International journal of sports medicine</jtitle><addtitle>Int J Sports Med</addtitle><date>2011-01-01</date><risdate>2011</risdate><volume>32</volume><issue>1</issue><spage>49</spage><epage>53</epage><pages>49-53</pages><issn>0172-4622</issn><eissn>1439-3964</eissn><coden>IJSMDA</coden><abstract>Abstract
During rock-climbing, fingers grasp holds of various shapes with high force intensities. To ideally place the fingertips on the holds, the thumb is sometimes positioned on the nail of the index finger. This allows using the thumb as an additional actuator by exerting a supplementary force in the same direction as the index, middle, ring and little fingers. This study analysed how the forces exerted by the fingers are modified by the additional action of the thumb. The results showed that the thumb increases the resultant forces exerted on the hold. It was shown that the pathology risks of the middle, ring and little fingers were not modified in this condition. The finger force sharing was totally re-organized due to the support of the thumb. This led to the conclusion that the central nervous system organised the association of the 5 fingers. The results were discussed in regard to the established theories of the virtual fingers and the neutral line of the hand.</abstract><cop>Stuttgart</cop><pub>Thieme</pub><pmid>21086244</pmid><doi>10.1055/s-0030-1267230</doi><tpages>5</tpages><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1061-7808</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3295-0871</orcidid></addata></record> |
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| ispartof | International journal of sports medicine, 2011-01, Vol.32 (1), p.49-53 |
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| language | eng |
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| source | MEDLINE; Thieme Connect Journals |
| subjects | Algorithms Biological and medical sciences Biomechanics Engineering Sciences Fundamental and applied biological sciences. Psychology Hand Strength - physiology Humans Male Mechanics Mountaineering - physiology Muscle Strength Orthopedics & Biomechanics Physics Thumb Vertebrates: body movement. Posture. Locomotion. Flight. Swimming. Physical exercise. Rest. Sports Young Adult |
| title | The Thumb During the Crimp Grip |
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