Wind wave measurements and modelling in a fetch-limited semi-enclosed lagoon
The south-west reef lagoon of New Caledonia is a semi-enclosed basin where, on first approximation, dominating sea state component corresponds to locally generated wind waves. This study aims to evaluate the ability of the wave model WAVEWATCH III to simulate wind wave distribution in this particula...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2009-05, Vol.56 (5), p.599-608 |
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| creator | Jouon, Aymeric Lefebvre, Jean Pierre Douillet, Pascal Ouillon, Sylvain Schmied, Loys |
| description | The south-west reef lagoon of New Caledonia is a semi-enclosed basin where, on first approximation, dominating sea state component corresponds to locally generated wind waves. This study aims to evaluate the ability of the wave model WAVEWATCH III to simulate wind wave distribution in this particular fetch-limited context, with a given parameterisation. In order to evaluate the consistency of the simulation results, wave parameters were measured
in situ by a wave and tide recorder (WTR9 Aanderaa) and by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV Sontek). This study underlines specific constrains for the deployment of instruments to assess the characteristic parameters of low amplitude and high frequency wind-waves. Special care was taken in the comparison step as, on one hand the wave model did not simulate the propagation of low-frequency oceanic waves inside the lagoon, and on the other hand the measured spectra bear an intrinsic limitation for high frequencies. The approximation of a sea state dominated by wind waves is verified on the study site. The accuracy of the simulation results is discussed with regards to the wind forcing applied to the model. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.12.005 |
| format | Article |
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in situ by a wave and tide recorder (WTR9 Aanderaa) and by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV Sontek). This study underlines specific constrains for the deployment of instruments to assess the characteristic parameters of low amplitude and high frequency wind-waves. Special care was taken in the comparison step as, on one hand the wave model did not simulate the propagation of low-frequency oceanic waves inside the lagoon, and on the other hand the measured spectra bear an intrinsic limitation for high frequencies. The approximation of a sea state dominated by wind waves is verified on the study site. The accuracy of the simulation results is discussed with regards to the wind forcing applied to the model.</description><identifier>ISSN: 0378-3839</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1872-7379</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.12.005</identifier><identifier>CODEN: COENDE</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Kidlington: Elsevier B.V</publisher><subject>Earth sciences ; Earth, ocean, space ; Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics ; Engineering geology ; Exact sciences and technology ; Fetch-limited ; Geomorphology, landform evolution ; Lagoon ; Marine ; Marine and continental quaternary ; New Caledonia ; Surficial geology ; Wave measurement ; Wave modeling ; WAVEWATCH ; Wind waves</subject><ispartof>Coastal engineering (Amsterdam), 2009-05, Vol.56 (5), p.599-608</ispartof><rights>2008 Elsevier B.V.</rights><rights>2015 INIST-CNRS</rights><rights>Distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-c413t-1f0ae1b15905df43f3dd375d1cd81bf8addd1855483b6ac5fbbdd3d8a3a4fcdf3</citedby><cites>FETCH-LOGICAL-c413t-1f0ae1b15905df43f3dd375d1cd81bf8addd1855483b6ac5fbbdd3d8a3a4fcdf3</cites></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><linktohtml>$$Uhttps://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.12.005$$EHTML$$P50$$Gelsevier$$H</linktohtml><link.rule.ids>230,314,780,784,885,3550,27924,27925,45995</link.rule.ids><backlink>$$Uhttp://pascal-francis.inist.fr/vibad/index.php?action=getRecordDetail&idt=21399789$$DView record in Pascal Francis$$Hfree_for_read</backlink><backlink>$$Uhttps://hal.science/hal-00434489$$DView record in HAL$$Hfree_for_read</backlink></links><search><creatorcontrib>Jouon, Aymeric</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Lefebvre, Jean Pierre</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Douillet, Pascal</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Ouillon, Sylvain</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Schmied, Loys</creatorcontrib><title>Wind wave measurements and modelling in a fetch-limited semi-enclosed lagoon</title><title>Coastal engineering (Amsterdam)</title><description>The south-west reef lagoon of New Caledonia is a semi-enclosed basin where, on first approximation, dominating sea state component corresponds to locally generated wind waves. This study aims to evaluate the ability of the wave model WAVEWATCH III to simulate wind wave distribution in this particular fetch-limited context, with a given parameterisation. In order to evaluate the consistency of the simulation results, wave parameters were measured
in situ by a wave and tide recorder (WTR9 Aanderaa) and by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV Sontek). This study underlines specific constrains for the deployment of instruments to assess the characteristic parameters of low amplitude and high frequency wind-waves. Special care was taken in the comparison step as, on one hand the wave model did not simulate the propagation of low-frequency oceanic waves inside the lagoon, and on the other hand the measured spectra bear an intrinsic limitation for high frequencies. The approximation of a sea state dominated by wind waves is verified on the study site. The accuracy of the simulation results is discussed with regards to the wind forcing applied to the model.</description><subject>Earth sciences</subject><subject>Earth, ocean, space</subject><subject>Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics</subject><subject>Engineering geology</subject><subject>Exact sciences and technology</subject><subject>Fetch-limited</subject><subject>Geomorphology, landform evolution</subject><subject>Lagoon</subject><subject>Marine</subject><subject>Marine and continental quaternary</subject><subject>New Caledonia</subject><subject>Surficial geology</subject><subject>Wave measurement</subject><subject>Wave modeling</subject><subject>WAVEWATCH</subject><subject>Wind waves</subject><issn>0378-3839</issn><issn>1872-7379</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2009</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><recordid>eNqFkMFqGzEQhkVpIG6Sd9hLCz3sRlqtvNpjatq6YOilIUcxK41sGa2USmuXvH1kHNxj5iJm-GZ-9BFSMdowypb3-0ZHyDN4DNumpVQ2rG0oFR_Igsm-rXveDx_JgvJe1lzy4Zp8ynlPSy2lWJDNkwum-gdHrCaEfEg4YZhzBWU6RYPeu7CtXKigsjjrXe3d5GY0VcbJ1Ri0j7l0HrYxhltyZcFnvHt7b8jjj-9_Vut68_vnr9XDptYd43PNLAVkIxMDFcZ23HJjeC8M00ay0UowxjApRCf5uAQt7DgWwEjg0FltLL8hX893d-DVc3ITpBcVwan1w0adZpR2vOvkcGSF_XJmn1P8e8A8q8llXf4FAeMhq5Z2S1m8FVCeQZ1izgnt5TKj6qRa7dV_1eqkWrG2RImy-vktA7IGbxME7fJlv2V8GHo5FO7bmcMi5-gwqaxdcYjGJdSzMtG9H_YKXAqaqA</recordid><startdate>20090501</startdate><enddate>20090501</enddate><creator>Jouon, Aymeric</creator><creator>Lefebvre, Jean Pierre</creator><creator>Douillet, Pascal</creator><creator>Ouillon, Sylvain</creator><creator>Schmied, Loys</creator><general>Elsevier B.V</general><general>Elsevier</general><scope>IQODW</scope><scope>AAYXX</scope><scope>CITATION</scope><scope>7TG</scope><scope>7TN</scope><scope>F1W</scope><scope>H96</scope><scope>KL.</scope><scope>L.G</scope><scope>1XC</scope></search><sort><creationdate>20090501</creationdate><title>Wind wave measurements and modelling in a fetch-limited semi-enclosed lagoon</title><author>Jouon, Aymeric ; Lefebvre, Jean Pierre ; Douillet, Pascal ; Ouillon, Sylvain ; Schmied, Loys</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-c413t-1f0ae1b15905df43f3dd375d1cd81bf8addd1855483b6ac5fbbdd3d8a3a4fcdf3</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2009</creationdate><topic>Earth sciences</topic><topic>Earth, ocean, space</topic><topic>Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics</topic><topic>Engineering geology</topic><topic>Exact sciences and technology</topic><topic>Fetch-limited</topic><topic>Geomorphology, landform evolution</topic><topic>Lagoon</topic><topic>Marine</topic><topic>Marine and continental quaternary</topic><topic>New Caledonia</topic><topic>Surficial geology</topic><topic>Wave measurement</topic><topic>Wave modeling</topic><topic>WAVEWATCH</topic><topic>Wind waves</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>Jouon, Aymeric</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Lefebvre, Jean Pierre</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Douillet, Pascal</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Ouillon, Sylvain</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Schmied, Loys</creatorcontrib><collection>Pascal-Francis</collection><collection>CrossRef</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts</collection><collection>Oceanic Abstracts</collection><collection>ASFA: Aquatic Sciences and Fisheries Abstracts</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) 2: Ocean Technology, Policy & Non-Living Resources</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts - Academic</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) Professional</collection><collection>Hyper Article en Ligne (HAL)</collection><jtitle>Coastal engineering (Amsterdam)</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>Jouon, Aymeric</au><au>Lefebvre, Jean Pierre</au><au>Douillet, Pascal</au><au>Ouillon, Sylvain</au><au>Schmied, Loys</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Wind wave measurements and modelling in a fetch-limited semi-enclosed lagoon</atitle><jtitle>Coastal engineering (Amsterdam)</jtitle><date>2009-05-01</date><risdate>2009</risdate><volume>56</volume><issue>5</issue><spage>599</spage><epage>608</epage><pages>599-608</pages><issn>0378-3839</issn><eissn>1872-7379</eissn><coden>COENDE</coden><abstract>The south-west reef lagoon of New Caledonia is a semi-enclosed basin where, on first approximation, dominating sea state component corresponds to locally generated wind waves. This study aims to evaluate the ability of the wave model WAVEWATCH III to simulate wind wave distribution in this particular fetch-limited context, with a given parameterisation. In order to evaluate the consistency of the simulation results, wave parameters were measured
in situ by a wave and tide recorder (WTR9 Aanderaa) and by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV Sontek). This study underlines specific constrains for the deployment of instruments to assess the characteristic parameters of low amplitude and high frequency wind-waves. Special care was taken in the comparison step as, on one hand the wave model did not simulate the propagation of low-frequency oceanic waves inside the lagoon, and on the other hand the measured spectra bear an intrinsic limitation for high frequencies. The approximation of a sea state dominated by wind waves is verified on the study site. The accuracy of the simulation results is discussed with regards to the wind forcing applied to the model.</abstract><cop>Kidlington</cop><pub>Elsevier B.V</pub><doi>10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.12.005</doi><tpages>10</tpages></addata></record> |
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| identifier | ISSN: 0378-3839 |
| ispartof | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam), 2009-05, Vol.56 (5), p.599-608 |
| issn | 0378-3839 1872-7379 |
| language | eng |
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| source | Elsevier ScienceDirect Journals Complete |
| subjects | Earth sciences Earth, ocean, space Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics Engineering geology Exact sciences and technology Fetch-limited Geomorphology, landform evolution Lagoon Marine Marine and continental quaternary New Caledonia Surficial geology Wave measurement Wave modeling WAVEWATCH Wind waves |
| title | Wind wave measurements and modelling in a fetch-limited semi-enclosed lagoon |
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