On the mutual relation between profiles and waves of sandy beachs
There are a stable point relating the movement of sand near the wavebreaking point in the beach profile. It is described in this present paper that the change of beach profileat 17 coasts of Japan is analyzed by using Ursell number (Ur=HbLb2/hb3) in relation to waveheight (Hb), wave length (Lb) and...
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Veröffentlicht in: | PROCEEDINGS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING IN THE OCEAN 1997, Vol.13, pp.871-876 |
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