Coupled wave action and shallow-water modelling for random wave runup on a slope

Wave runup statistics on beaches, dunes and coastal structures are needed for coastal management and engineering designs. Spectral wave energy-action models are widely used to predict wave propagation in deep and shallow water, incorporating the effects of refraction, bed friction, breaking and wave...

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Veröffentlicht in:Journal of hydraulic research 2011-08, Vol.49 (4), p.515-522
Hauptverfasser: McCabe, Maurice, Stansby, Peter K., Apsley, David D.
Format: Artikel
Sprache:eng
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