Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to li...

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Veröffentlicht in:Physics of fluids (1994) 2023-06, Vol.35 (6)
Hauptverfasser: Meisner, Eytan, Galvagno, Mariano, Andrade, David, Liberzon, Dan, Stuhlmeier, Raphael
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container_issue 6
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container_title Physics of fluids (1994)
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creator Meisner, Eytan
Galvagno, Mariano
Andrade, David
Liberzon, Dan
Stuhlmeier, Raphael
description We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.
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source AIP Journals Complete; Alma/SFX Local Collection
subjects Fluid dynamics
Forecasting
Ocean surface
Physics
Slopes
Surface waves
title Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections
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